How to sew a dress on a yoke pattern. How to sew a baby dress with a round yoke

The principle of constructing patterns for any small baby doll or baby doll, using the example of Paol Rein, 21 cm baby doll

  In other words, I’m telling you how to do this:

For you need a CIRCULATION, ruler, pencil, checkered sheet.
  Measured the width of the neck.


  Moved the measurement to a sheet. Found the middle of the segment. This is the radius of the first circle, the neck of the future dress.


  The ruler measured the width of the future coquette, on the doll, from the neck to the shoulder. The shoulder should be covered with a “wing”, but not to the armpit. 2 cm for this doll. The compasses were opened 2 cm wider and a second circle was drawn.


  We take into account the bevel of the shoulder - we make a bevel on the folded half of the pattern, on both sides, 5 mm each.


  From all sides we cut off the excess. Two slices are obtained from a double-folded sheet.


  The back part is cut in half and butt jointed on the sides to the front part.


  We take into account the overlap of parts on the back. While the back is simply cut, converges butt. And it is necessary to overlap. They glued a piece of paper on both sides, added 5 mm to each side of the back.


  Done. It looks like this from the face.


  And so on the inside out.


  The resulting clamp was tried on a doll. They noted where there will be frontier and rear armhole borders on one arm.


  Mirrored to the second side of the pattern (label red).


  They put two rags face to face - top fabric and lining. We translated the pattern. RED sections DO NOT SEW!


  Sewed along the green lines. In red DO NOT.


  On the other hand it looks like this.


  Cut off the excess, leaving 5 mm allowances. Notches were made inside the circle-neck.


  They turned it through an unstitched front, ironed it with iron. From the face:


  From the inside out:


  Determined with the length of the hem. I think little dolls don’t need a dress on the floor. It is necessary that a little cowards cover - so a long body with short legs looks more harmonious. I put the yoke-clamp on the doll, measure from the edge of the yoke to “so that the cowards cover” - it turned out 6 cm.
  Determined with the length of the strip of fabric. It should be long. It’s 2–2.5 times longer than it would just fit under the yoke without folds. We will spoil the handkerchief, he already hemmed hem. Cut off on both sides of the handkerchief stripes 6, 5 cm - the length of the hem plus allowance.


  Borders on the sides were cut off at the front. The back was cut in half, we don’t touch the side rims there - they will be a fastener.


Sew the pieces in one strip. Armholes: just cut two 1x2 cm segments (painted over in the picture) and overcast the edges. You can immediately sew from one strip of fabric, not from pieces, if there is a sufficiently long strip.


  For larger dolls, you can be confused with trimmed stitches, for small ones, overcasting the edge is enough.


  Now we sew the yoke with the hem, while laying the folds on the hem. Fold the parts face to face. We start from the back, before being sewn last. It is VERY important to ensure that the seam does not move off the marking - one part is rectangular, and the second is rounded. I flash three times. “There,” following the position of each stitch. Then I cut off the allowance to a minimum and sew it back - sew over. And the third time “there” - I raise the cut to the yoke and grab it so that it does not change position. Clear? It has already been flashed three times:


  And here I sew the last part, before, and so far only once. Still it will be necessary to cut off excess, to overcast and to lift up-to grab.


  Done.


  Clasp on thread loops and buttons. It is possible on buttons, on a flypaper, on hooks - it does not matter.


  The last step: cleaning the markup. Boiled the kettle. Boiling water was poured into a scoop with a spoonful of washing powder. Liners, felt-tip pens go off almost instantly. It remains to rinse, without squeezing, and spread on a terry towel. Maybe then still pat, or maybe not. Depends on the fabric.
  You can put on and enjoy :)

All my dolls are in dresses so built and sewn:

A dress with a yoke is characterized by an unusual cut and the presence of additional sewing details in the shoulder area. Unlike men's products, a female coquette can have different shapes (rectangular, circular, triangular). On dresses and blouses, it is made either from a denser or thinner, transparent material (lace). Very often strewn with rhinestones or other decorative elements and accessories.

  st100sp.com

The cutting yoke can be positioned on almost any product (pants, skirt, jeans, shirt). Accordingly, its location will depend on the item of clothing. On the dress, the coquette is stitched to the front or back, and sometimes from both sides. The coquette always decorates a product and favorably distinguishes it from simple styles. Such an element is able to create both delicate, elegant images, and emphasize the rigor and conciseness of the model.

History and types of coquette

The appearance of the first dress with a yoke dates from the Middle Ages. Then a similar product was available exclusively to wealthy women with a special position and status. But over time, the social circle of people who have the right to wear these clothes has expanded. Already in the 18-19 centuries, almost any woman could afford a dress with a yoke.

For the first time in Russia, the coquette began to be used on trapezoid sundresses. The element brought variety to the model with a simple cut and was often performed in contrasting colors.

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Later, straight or slightly flared silhouettes are replaced by options with a high waist and different types of coquette. In addition to an interesting cut, the dresses were equipped with decorative trim, embroidery with oriental ornaments and sleeves-lanterns, and new styles appeared every year.

The modern world of fashion is characterized by a wide variety of products with a yoke. Often this sewn fragment is made of silk, guipure, tulle, Irish lace, satin or chiffon crepe.

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Types of Flirts

• Classic with straight sewing line.
• Curly with a curved sewing line.
• To the middle or below the armhole.
• With an extra cutout front or back.
• Round shape sewn into the neckline.
• A triangular shape sewn into the neck.
• Layered.
• Clamp
• Collar.

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Pattern

The options presented in stores may not always correspond to the preferences and characteristics of a woman’s figure, so many think about how to create a product with a yoke with their own hands.

It is worth starting with modeling patterns, since this style of dresses has a complex cut that is almost impossible to draw immediately on the fabric.

The pattern can be designed independently or use the finished sample: just print or draw it, and then transfer it to the fabric.

In order for the product to be sewn with high quality and fit well on you, the finished dress pattern is adjusted for you.

Necessary measurements

• Chest and above the chest.
• Neck circumference.
• Waist circumference.
• The length of the shoulder (from the base of the neck to the joint of the arm with the shoulder).
• Hip circumference.

Then transfer to the paper the pattern-base of the dress in accordance with your parameters. Do not forget that the front or back, depending on the style, must have an increase in the fastener, which is modeled separately. Accordingly, with a fastener width of 2 cm, it is necessary to add these 2 cm to the width of the fragment with a zipper or buttons.

If your style provides additional volume instead of a fitted silhouette, then it can be created using drapery of fabric into assemblies or folds. To do this, you need to cut (that is, cut into fragments) the base and expand by 4-5 cm. To get more folds, the dress pattern should be expanded to a distance of 5 cm.

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As a result, you should get the following fragments for the simplest cutting:

• 1 or 2 details of the yoke of the front dress, depending on the presence or absence of a fastener;
• central part of the front to the waist (1 part);
• front and back for the skirt;
• back of the dress;
• elements for the collar (if it is provided for in style).

In addition, you can cut a frill for the bottom of the product, frills for the sleeves and the dress belt. The parameters will depend on the desired volume and length of the shuttlecocks or folds. The front and back of the skirt can be a solid piece with the central details of the dress, especially in straight styles.

Sewing

In order to sew a dress with a yoke, you will need:

• about 2 meters of fabric (knitwear, cotton, linen);
• 1 meter of the main fabric or decorative material for the coquette at will (lace, organza, contrasting materials);
• pattern;
• ruler;
• iron;
• sewing machine;
• french pins
• scissors;
• crayon, soap or washable tissue marker.

Working process

1. First, transfer all the fragments of the pattern to the fabric, taking into account the allowances for the seams (about 0.5 cm at the main seams, 2 cm for the fastener). Cut them out.
2. Form tucks on the front of the center of the dress. Draw two small cone-shaped fragments. Fold them in half and secure with French pins.
3. Sew tucks with a straight stitch and iron with the iron in the desired direction.
4. Form small assemblies. It is recommended to start drapery from the center of the product. For one fold, grab the same amount of fabric on both sides and secure it with a pin to the front fragment of the yoke. Be careful when assembling so that the finished product fits well in the chest area. Avoid creasing too wide. In this case, both the coquette and the base should be located with the front side inward.
5. Sew the yoke and base. Start from the center and gradually move to the sides, removing the pins one at a time. After stitching, overcast the edges with manual overlock or leave them open. Smooth them with an iron in different directions so that they lie flat.
6. Sew the back of the coquette to the back of the base. To do this, you do not need to form tucks, so you can connect the parts with several pins and stitch them right away. The edges of the seams are treated in the same way.
7. Lock the shoulder ends of the back and front of the yoke and sew them with a straight stitch. Finish this place with edge trimming. The ends can be sewn with a double line, which will not only extend the life of the shoulder seams, but will also look stylish and original.
8. If you want to make a double coquette (of two layers), then the front and back parts of the base should be cut according to the pattern of the coquette. Then all the stitches are done using a needle for dense fabrics. Both layers are stitched at once.
9. After stitching the coquette and the base, side seams can be formed immediately. If you want to create a drawstring or tucks along the waist line, then you need to sew the dress on the sides at the very least.
10. Without twisting the product, connect the side edges with pins, sew and sew. If you do not have elastic fabric (dense cotton, linen), then the side seams are best treated with an overlock so that they do not diverge during wear.
11. Finish the work by processing the armholes. All open ends in such a product are easy to process with a hem seam. You can also diversify the straight style by adding a frill along the edge or belt. To do this, apply frill strips on the armholes of the dress and on the lower edge face to face, sweep and stitch.
12. Form a belt from the remains of the main material: fold a strip of fabric in half on the wrong side, sew an open edge, twist and end the ends with a straight stitch.

Among the many styles of women's dresses, a special place is occupied by a dress with a yoke. This product with an unusual cut gives lightness and charm to the female image, adds playfulness and coquetry. Every year, famous fashion designers present new collections that delight the audience. You can see dresses with a classic yoke from Victoria Beckham, Karen Millen or unusual models of modern art nouveau from the brands ZARA, Colin’s, LACOSTE, Carlo Pazolini or Prada.

Moreover, such products to the taste of fashionistas all over the world - Europe, Asia, America, Russia. What is the appeal of dresses with a yoke? These are always gentle, graceful patterns that adorn and emphasize female beauty. In the photo you can see many elegant models that embody original design ideas.

The history of the appearance of dresses with a yoke

The history of the first dress has more than 6,000 years. In the Middle Ages, such a garment was available only to noble ladies. Fashion changed from year to year, and in the 18th – 19th centuries, dresses became affordable and beloved women's clothing. A trapeze dress on a yoke became a likeness of a Russian sundress. This is a simple and at the same time attractive product with a free and comfortable cut.

In the 19th century, not only painting and poetry flourished, but also design art. Volumetric silhouettes are replaced by long straight models with high waist and yoke. For decoration, embroidery, oriental elements, small sleeves in the form of lanterns, adding medieval luxury, were used. Each year, new fashion trends appeared and unusual, original dress styles were introduced. Today the market is replete with an incredible variety of models on a yoke of guipure, Irish lace, satin, silk, chiffon. Dresses attract with originality and grace, extraordinary luxury and at the same time simplicity.

Types of dresses with a yoke

Dresses with a yoke are universal products that are useful for every day.  and will be appropriate for the holiday event. Evening dresses look attractive - a dress with a yoke and a neckline on the back or in the neckline. An interesting option is a dress with a yoke collar or in the form of a collar. For going to the cinema or to a disco, an outfit of two elements is suitable - coquette and drapery. For daily wear, a dress of medium length with a straight or angular yoke is relevant.

The summer version of clothing is a light short dress with a round yoke and frills along it and along the bottom of the product. Demi-season models - a woolen dress, crocheted or knitted with a straight or corner yoke. Openwork knitwear effectively emphasize the figure and give harmony to the silhouette.

There are many ways to cut dresses that differ in patterns of coquette. There is an oval, round, angular, straight and curly coquette that determine the external content of the dress.

  Types of Flirts :

• Classical
• To the middle of the armhole.
• Curly.
• With a neckline.

• Round yoke built into the neck.
• Coquette - a collar.
• Coquette - a collar.
• Triangular.
• Double.

A dress with a knitted yoke of any shape looks beautiful. Openwork or transparent lace yoke can be overlapped, this will add a twist to the female image. Elegantly look dresses in which the sleeves and coquette are made of similar materials - guipure, lace, chiffon. Lightness is given by products with a multi-colored frill along the coquette, hem and sleeves. Such models are especially suitable for little girls. Products combining drapery and coquette are airy, light and appropriate for parties or walks. Guipure dress with a yoke and translucent sleeves will bring luxury and sexuality to the female image.

Tarik Ediz evening dresses with an oriental accent and bright color attract many women. Deep cuts and an open neckline will emphasize a beautiful chest and a thin waist. Putting on a dress from Tarik Ediz, made of luxurious fabrics, decorated with artificial diamonds and pearls, any woman will feel like a real queen. A dress with a knitted yoke and embroidery of the fashion house Rosa Clara looks amazing. The products are dominated by soft colors, a feature of the patterns are chic embroidery and multi-colored pebbles. The wedding collections of the Spanish fashion designer Pronovias are popular. His lace dress that adds grace is a true design masterpiece!

What to wear dresses with a yoke?

The coquette harmoniously fits into any style and allows you to create a wide variety of ensembles. A classic dress with a detachable coquette goes well with elegant shoes, a fashionable hat and a bag - a hard-bottomed box with ties. Solid dresses with a contrasting yoke to the middle of the armhole are ideally combined with accessories matching the color of the yoke. You can complement the image with a belt, a handbag with handles in the form of rings and elegant jewelry. A luxurious dress on a curly coquette in itself is original and beautiful. The cut line between the hem and the yoke can be broken or rounded. It is the shape of the coquette that determines the style and appearance.

Products with such a yoke can be combined with Bowling bags or Satchel bags with similar cuts. Dresses with a yoke and a slit above the chest or on the back with a Field bag or Hobo bag and high boots with round necklines look gorgeous.

Youth style Is a combination of short dresses with a double yoke, comfortable shoes with flat soles and Hipster or Tote handbags. A dress with long sleeves will be in harmony with a jacket or cardigan, a bag - a tablet or a Week-end model. Dresses with a triangular yoke and basques are perfect for overweight women. The sophisticated shape of the coquette, decorated with sequins, beads or rhinestones, will add luxury and hide the flaws of the figure. As for shoes, the best option would be low shoes, shoes or platform boots.

Solemn Event  always requires a special dress code. For a holiday or party, a dress with a lace yoke is suitable. This is a thorough, feminine and elegant item that will create a beautiful ensemble. It can be combined with elegant shoes, a wide-brimmed hat, a clutch bag, exquisite jewelry. Cotton or viscose dresses with lace or satin inserts look beautiful. Such a dress with sleeves and frills made of lace or guipure will look even more elegant.

How to wear dresses with a yoke?

If you want to add harmony to the figure, it is advisable to wear long straight dresses or models of medium length with a belt at the waist. Depending on the physique, certain models are used to hide the flaws and emphasize the dignity of the figure. Excess volume of hips or abdomen will allow you to hide dresses with low or high waist. Visually increase the volume of the chest will help dresses with a classic round yoke. It is such a yoke that performs the function of shoulder straps in summer models. The dress sits well and holds on shoulders thanks to a yoke, which is often combined with an American armhole and decorated with rivets or beads.

The dress with a skirt on a yoke, similar to the Scottish samples, looks original. Such products are very convenient and comfortable, because they do not constrain movement. Dresses with a yoke in the shape of a collar will help emphasize individuality. The product with a yoke - a collar looks original. The rounded shapes of the coquette always add femininity and charm. When composing an ensemble, it is important to choose all the elements of clothing so that they harmonize in style and color content.

Color schemes dresses with a yoke

European fashion houses present bright models of dresses, including plain and contrasting elements. You can purchase a branded Dior dress in yellow, mint or beige, black with a white yoke from Chanel. Gorgeous Prada designs with oriental print and small floral patterns are offered.

Beautifully designed DOLCE & GABBANA dresses in dark blue or muted gray with a large pattern attract the attention of fashionistas. You can buy a coral product with red Chanel beads or a playful check dress from Burberry. ETRO dresses with patterns and colors or HERMES SILK models with animal print look incredibly romantic. For every taste, you can choose dresses and create your own style and romantic image!

So, now we will model this dress:

First you need to build on yourself a pattern of the base of the dress, and for this you need to correctly take your measurements.

When you have already done the above, we proceed to determine the length of the dress. In the photo it is just below the knee and narrowed to the bottom, like a pencil on a skirt. For narrowing, it is necessary to postpone 3 cm on both sides of the side of the skirt along the bottom line.

First, translate the thoracic tuck to the side (see the link above for more details), then close the tuck. To do this, measure its width in the widest part (at the waist) and set this width aside from the side to the center of the front and back of the dress. Connect this point with the lines with the point of the armhole and draw down to the hip line. The height of the tuck turned to the side is the same as its original height. We measure them so that they are the same, and we erase the tuck at the waist so as not to confuse. Thus, we cut the tuck of the waist from the side.

You can also make a yoke on the back, or you can leave the waist tucks.

A yoke can be done in two ways (two modeling options).

The first version of the coquette:

• the yoke begins just below the waistline on the side

Then, on the side line from the waist line down, lay 3.5 cm, and on the center line of the front up from the waist line, lay 1.5 cm. Draw a line under the curve (well, so that it is not quite straight, but as if slightly curved) and make the width yoke about 8 cm. Draw another one parallel to this line at a distance of 8 cm, putting 8 cm upwards along the side line and the center front line.

The second version of the coquette:

• we begin to make the yoke clearly from the waist line on the side up

Perhaps this option is more successful. Then just put a point on the side of the waist line, put the yoke height from it - 8 cm, put 5 cm up the waist line from the waist line, and put another 8 cm up from point 5. And draw the yoke line under the curve.

Modeling the neckline “drop” of the neck of the dress

Now you need to draw the contours of the "drop". But first, you need to determine the depth of the cut, perhaps you do not want to make such a frank cut, and then the “drop” will need to be reduced. For example, I decided to reduce it by half, then divide by 2 the distance between the top corner of the yoke and the neck in the center of the front.

We put a point, from it up to the neck in the center we draw a flexible line (as in the photo), the width of the drop in the widest place is 2.5 -3 cm, the drop does not close above the line of the neck, so we draw it at a distance of 1-1.5 cm from the center of the front and above the neckline is also 1-1.5 cm. Thus, we will make a stand, round the corner and draw a line to a point on the shoulder line.

Important!

Since the drop in the photo starts right from the bottom of the yoke, you can experiment with the depth and width of the drop, I would generally sew this dress from a test fabric first if you are a beginner, since all misses will be visible. Such a recommendation is given at sewing courses, so you will not spoil (in which case ..) expensive fabric and can make adjustments to the models.

You can shift the shoulder point inward by 2 cm, then the armhole line will be more open and the shuttle will look more elegant. Draw a new line of armholes. We do the same on the backrest parts.

Shuttlecocks on a dress

It is necessary to draw on the details of the front and back of the line along which the shuttlecocks will be sewn. The photo shows that the shuttlecock closes the armhole, but not to the very end, and passes in a smooth line to the chest area, the bottom of the shuttlecock line is at the level with the top of the yoke. Therefore, on the horizontal of the level of the top of the coquette we find a point (put aside 6 cm from the side) and draw a flexible line to the armhole (as in the photo below), you can make the line flexible, you can straight, just the shuttle will look a little different.
  Similarly, we build a shuttlecock on the back. Lay 6 cm horizontally from the top of the coquette and from point 6 draw a line of the shuttlecock along the back.

How to build a shuttlecock on a dress?

The photo shows that the widest part of the shuttlecock is on the shoulder line, this line is the middle of the shuttlecock, and the shuttlecock narrows to the extreme parts.
  Shuttlecock length: measure in the drawing the shuttle line in front + the shuttle line in the back \u003d for example (I got 52 cm).
The width of the shuttlecock in the widest place \u003d 7 cm, and in the narrow \u003d 2.5, you can also search for the ideal width of the shuttlecock for your figure on the trial version of the dress.

  How to quickly cut a shuttlecock?

We need to take a centimeter, and lay it out in a ring so that the inner circle has the length we need \u003d 52 cm, then mark the middle of the shuttlecock and set aside the widest part \u003d 7cm, the shuttlecock will taper to 2.5 cm to the edges.
  If you lay out the inner circle ( see option A in the figure below), then the shuttlecock will turn out to be thick if put in a semicircle ( option B in the figure) \u003d it’s not so thick, you also need (preferably, of course) to look for the ideal shuttlecock breeding.

How to sew a dress with shuttlecocks on your shoulders?

I will only technically describe the important points of the sewing process.

The coquette is made in two layers and both layers are strengthened with doubler, and the front parts can also be made in two layers, or you can grind it. I made a droplet trim on this dress, it may come in handy))).